Why You Need to Go to the Faroe Islands, in 13 Stunning Images

Astonishing landscapes, culinary adventures, and incredible wildlife await.

The Faroe Islands are a remote, enticing archipelago of 18 massive volcanic basalt rocks thrusting skyward through the North Atlantic Ocean, halfway between Norway and Iceland. Originally settled by Norwegian Vikings in the ninth and 10th centuries and now an autonomous outpost of the Kingdom of Denmark, the destination is a paradise for hikers, mountain climbers, and sheep—there are 80,000 woolly grazers here, compared with just 50,000 human residents. As for tourists, they’ve yet to descend en masse upon these vastly unspoiled, lush, and relatively undiscovered islands. But that might be changing.

By 2020, three new, large-scale hotels will open along the Faroes’ shores. And an uptick in budget flights from Copenhagen, Edinburgh, and Reykjavik means that annual visitor numbers have already been climbing 10 percent annually for the past five years. In other words, the time to go is now, before over-tourism becomes a reality. You’ll get to blaze trails along misty mountain peaks, where you can see enormous colonies of puffins, guillemots, fulmars, and storm petrels; sail a traditional masted ship along a dramatic, crashing coastline; and engage with welcoming Faroese locals, whose ancient language, live-off-the-land instincts, and communal customs remind us just how strong human nature can be.

SAILING

To fully appreciate the grandeur of these vertiginous islands, set out on the navy-blue ocean and see them from afar. Out here, you’ll experience the full force of the Atlantic, no doubt gaining deeper respect for the gruff, salty Faroese captains who swiftly navigate its strong currents. Breathe in crisp, clean air as white sea foam crests along a trail behind you, recalling that just 100 years ago, this was the local mode of transportation. Today, excursions on both modern boats and historic 19th century schooners are easy to book. Just head to the main city of Torshavn, where same-day departures are available from kiosks along the harbor.

PUFFINS

Each summer, enormous puffin colonies descend on the Faroese island Mykines to build subterranean nests and raise their chicks. These web-footed waddlers are known to revisit the island every year during breeding season, which generally spans from mid-April until September. Visit the island by ferry or head there with a naturalist guide from local travel outfitter 62ºN; you'll watch them playfully plunge head-first into the sea and resurface with dozens of small herring or hake in their trademark orange beaks. Just don’t get too attached. Given their plentiful population status—locals claim that more than a million puffins can be found in the Faroes each summer—the birds are often featured on local restaurants’ menus, often in pan-fried form.

SHEEP

Not only do these peaceful grass-grazers provide natives with warm, woolly wardrobes (and stylish home décor)—they’ve literally put the Faroes on the map. The Faroe Islands even petitioned Google to be featured on Google Street View by creating “sheep view” mapping, which entailed mounting cameras on their backs to chart the islands’ roads. Getting around in your rental car is now easier than ever.

KALSOY ISLAND

The island of Kalsoy, marked by its thin shape, steep peaks, and rugged valleys, is one of the best places to hike on the archipelago. Take the 45-minute hike to the lighthouse on the northernmost tip and you’re more likely to meet native avian species—such as red-legged black guillemot seabirds—than you are to encounter humans. Given that severe storms can come on quite suddenly, hiking with a local guide is the only way to go. Jóhannus Hansen from Reika Adventures and Pol Sundskaro of Hiking.fo offer a wide range of tours, suitable for beginners and experienced mountain climbers alike.

DRIVING

One of the greatest pleasures in the Faroes is also the simplest: driving. Thanks to the modern infrastructure of roads, bridges, and undersea tunnels connecting the islands, you can cover plenty of ground with four wheels. (Avis and Hertz have rental outlets at the airport.) Pictured here is the old mountain road to Tórshavn, which presents a fantastic view of Koltur island, a Viking village that's inhabited by just two reclusive sheep herders and can be reached only by helicopter.

HIKING EYSTUROY ISLAND

Eysturoy, the second-largest of Faroes, is home to peaceful fishing villages and 66 mountain peaks, including the tallest in the entire archipelago. Hiking here is so rugged and raw it seems a more fitting backdrop for a Game of Thrones episode—though the only costume you’ll need is a sturdy pair of boots and waterproof pants. (The terrain is well-marked and suitable for beginners—as long as you’re not too terrified of heights.)

ROWING CULTURE

For the Faroese, rowing is a national sport that traces back to the area’s earliest Viking settlers, who had to row fast to survive; when blubber-rich pilot whales were spotted, the most agile oarsmen were best at hunting down this vital source of sustenance. Today, rowing is a popular club sport; competitions start in Klaksvík in June and end with the final boat race at Ólavsoka on July 28. The culminating regatta also kicks off a two-day festival, making midsummer an especially lively time to visit.

KOKS RESTAURANT

KOKS, the Faroes’ first Michelin-starred restaurant, has an unusual setup: Waiters dressed as road workers greet you at your car door on the side of a treacherous road to escort you to a whale storehouse for phase 1 of a multi-venue, 21-course meal. In the small wooden building, a back door gives way to a quaint candlelit lounge lined with sheep skins, where salty whale jerky and codfish are served with local butter; to get to your next course, you might be chauffeured in a 4x4 to a lakeside cottage marked by a burning campfire. Sound adventurous? It is—and the menu, by chef Poul Andrias Ziska, is also likely to take you out of your comfort zone.

A MEAL WORTH THE TRIP

Pictured here is the pilot whale jerky and whipped codfish served upon arrival to KOKS—the former is matured in the cold ocean air all autumn and winter, slowly drying to produce a rich, concentrated flavor. This Nordic amuse-bouche is meant to introduce guests to the Faroese way of cooking, which has relied on meat and fish preservation since the Viking age. The dishes that follow put just as much emphasis on local ingredients: Think briny horse mussels and sea urchins so fresh they can almost wriggle their way off the table, or North Atlantic halibut under a bed of dewy watercress.

FAROESE ARCHITECTURE

Faroese architecture reflects the islands: Traditional homes are generally made from dark basalt and sport grass-turf rooftops that must be regularly mowed. These modern, geodesic versions can be spotted in the village of Kvívík; they were designed from recycled and sustainable materials by Danish architect Kari Thomsen and are powered by small solar arrays.

CONTEMPORARY DESIGN

Faroese architects are young, ambitious, and growing in number. A prominent example is Osbjorn Jacobsen of Henning Larsen Architects, who recently completed the Eysturkommuna Town Hall, pictured here. The structure clearly pays tribute to tradition, but it also forges a new path. “We are an extremely young nation when it comes to architecture. I feel we’re beginning to have our own identity and language. But we are still heavily influenced by Denmark, where most receive their formal education,” says Jacobsen.

HEIMABLIDNI

Translated as “home hospitality,” heimablídni refers to Faroese dinner parties hosted by local farmers in their homes. They offer farmers an intimate platform to share the fruits of their labor, along with a modest side income. For visitors, the dinners are a chance to taste and experience Faroese customs first-hand—and they're easily bookable by phone.

In the home of award-winning farmers Anna and Oli Rubeksen, groups of 10 to 15 are welcomed into an oceanfront dining room adorned with a wall-mounted whale spear and greeted with a stiff round of Faroese schnapps. First courses are typically land-based, simple affairs such as vegetable soup and lamb jerky, followed by a plate of fresh-caught cod or halibut. For the main course, the farmers whip up a wintry bowl of clove-spiced blood sausage and fermented sheep’s-head meat, with a side of rhubarb chutney. The whole evening feels like a family holiday, fueled by plenty of Faroese beer from the archipelago’s two local distilleries.

WHERE TO STAY

Opened in April 2018 with just 14 rooms, Hotel Havgrím is the only boutique hotel in the Faroes—for now. Situated on a private estate-style property minutes from Torshavn harbor, it boasts uninterrupted views of the ocean and of Nolsoy Island. Built in 1948 by Havgrímur Johannesen, this ivory inn has a commanding maritime presence; it was formerly occupied by the Danish Navy. More important, it has high-speed Wi-Fi and friendly staff and is a comfortable place from which to plan a full-on Faroese adventure.